How we draft our patterns for knit fabrics

We rely on our flat knit basic block for nearly all of our knit patterns, except for swimwear and sportswear with full bust options. These knit blocks are designed without darts, based on a flat block construction.

Our drafting method is primarily derived from Aldrich's “Metric Pattern Cutting,” with additional adaptations from other sources such as Pearson’s “Patternmaking for Fashion Design,” Modellissimo by Institut de Burgo, and Müller & Sohn.

Drafting a Flat Block for Knit Fabrics

When drafting a flat block for knit fabrics, the assumption is that the fabric will conform to the body's 3D shape by stretching.

For the basic draft, we use the following horizontal measurements:

1. Full bust circumference
2. Waist circumference
3. Hips circumference
4. Neck circumference
5. Back width (also used for the front bodice)
6. Shoulder width (calculated based on back width and neck circumference)
7. Shoulder slope (standardized between 16 to 21 degrees, depending on size). The shoulder slope on the pattern pieces includes adjustments for armhole depth and front waist length, so it may not directly reflect the actual shoulder slope.

In addition to these, we use standard vertical measurements such as front waist length, back waist length, hip depth, and armhole depth. We do not use side length measurements, as they can be difficult to measure accurately.

Occasionally, we receive requests for bust point location and upper bust measurements. However, since our patterns are drafted using a standard flat block, these measurements are not utilized and are therefore not included in the pattern.

Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)

If you usually require a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) for your knit garments, you will likely need one for our patterns as well. To determine if an FBA is necessary, compare your back width/chest width to the provided table.

 

There are various methods for performing an FBA, but we recommend the following two:

1. Easy FBA

   • This method involves blending sizes along the armhole from your chest/back size to your bust size. It does not add vertical length, making it ideal for garments where an FBA would be challenging due to asymmetry or design features. However, if blending across more than three sizes, the armhole may become significantly altered, potentially affecting sleeve fit.

2. Classic FBA

   • This method adds both width and length to the front for more room across the bust. To perform this adjustment, measure your bust point from the neck/shoulder and transfer that measurement to the pattern to mark the bust point.
   • Steps:
     1. Slash the pattern piece from the bust point down to the bottom hem and then to the armhole.
     2. Spread the pattern along these lines, adding the needed amount divided by two.
     3. Move the pattern piece down by half of that amount.
     4. Even out the side seam and the bottom hem, transferring the length from the back.

 

Wearing and Design Ease

Measuring pattern pieces doesn’t always reflect the measurements used to draft the pattern. Most knit patterns include negative ease at the shoulders, back/front width, and bust, while positive ease is often added at the waist and hips. This ease can be applied to both horizontal and vertical measurements.

Why We Don't Provide Finished Measurements with Knit Patterns

Our patterns are designed with beginners in mind, and the inclusion of finished measurements for knit patterns can be confusing due to the mix of negative and positive ease. This could lead to incorrect size selection based on assumptions about ease and fit. You can find information on bust / waist and hips ease in the tutorial under the sizing section.

For woven patterns, where ease is always positive and other fitting factors like fabric stretch are not involved, we do provide finished measurements.